CHAPTER X
FROM 1783 TO 1790
Forlorn Condition of the Senecas at the Close of the Revolutionary War – Willing to Cede the Remainder of their Lands in Pennsylvania – Commissioners Appointed to Treat with Them – A Sum Appropriated to Purchase Indian Goods – Quantity and Kind of Goods with which Purchase was Made-Treaty of Fort Stanwix – Boundaries of the Tract Acquired by Pennsylvania – Cornplanter the Friend of the Whites – Subsequent Indignation of His Tribe – General Irvine Explores the New Purchase – Extracts from His Report – Running the Boundary Line Between New York and Pennsylvania – Interesting Details – Early Names of Warren County Streams – Indian Villages – Pertinent Suggestions – A Tract of Land Granted to Cornplanter – Survey of Lands of the Mouth of the Conewango – An Account of the First Official Exploration of the Head Waters of the Allegheny.
With the return of peace between the English and Americans, many of the Senecas returned to their old haunts on the upper waters of the Allegheny and Susquehanna. But they were destitute and dejected. The sites of their once thriving villages, orchards and cornfields, were overgrown with rank weeds and briers. They were without the supplies which years of intercourse and trading with the French and English had taught them to consider indispensable, and it was soon ascertained that they, in conjunction with others of the Six Nations, were willing to cede the remainder of their lands in Pennsylvania for quantities of gunpowder, lead, rum, blankets, beads, flannels, etc., or such goods as invariably delighted the sons and daughters of the forest.
Thereupon, permission having first been obtained from Congress allowing the authorities of Pennsylvania to treat for the cession of Indian lands lying within the boundaries of the State, the Supreme Executive Council, on the 25th of September, 1783, appointed Samuel J. Atlee, William Maclay and Francis Johnston as commissioners for the State to hold treaties with the Indians and to purchase the lands above mentioned. However, no further action seems to have been taken until August 28, 1784, when it was ordered by Council that a warrant be issued on the State treasurer in favor of the commissioners for the sum of £3,375, specie, with which to “negotiate a purchase from the Indians of the unpurchased territory in the State.” In addition the commissioners were allowed £1,000, to defray expenses while making a purchase of goods with which to pay the Indians, of travel, etc. They were also authorized to employ interpreters, messengers, and such other persons as might be found useful in gaining the object sought, and such expenses were to be an extra claim against the State. Captain Joseph Stiles, commissary of military stores, was ordered to deliver to them five hundred pounds of gunpowder, three horsemen’s tents and one soldier’s tent, to be used while accomplishing their undertaking, and lastly they were directed by Council to procure immediately the following described articles, being duly cautioned, however, not to expend more in their purchase of goods than the amount placed at their disposal – £3,375:
20 1/2 casks of gunpowder.
5 pieces embossed flannels.
1 tonn of barr lead.
60 dozen broaches.
2 groce of thimbles.
2 do gorgets.
2 do of jews harps.
12 do nose bobs.
50 dozen white ruffled shirts.
12 do hair pipes.
5 do laced hats.
12 do rings.
50 do knives.
6 pieces scarlet broad cloth.
10 do hatchets.
100 pounds of brass wire.
10 do pipe tomahawks.
20 dozen silk handkerchiefs.
12 do looking glasses.
2 do pieces of callicoe.
2 M. awl blades.
4 do saddles & bridles.
5 M. needles.
1000 flints, or 1 keg.
1 C. vermillion.
1 groce sheers.
50 rifles.
1do scissars.
60 M. wampum, 30 white, 30 black.
1 do horn combs.
12 dozen silver arm bands.
1 do ivory combs.
12 do do wrist bands.
50 pounds of thread, sorted.
20 do pipes, Moravian.
12 groce scarlet and star gartering.
20 do callicoe shirts.
12 do green and yellow bed lace.
1 hogshead of tobacco.
3 hogsheads of rum.
500 pounds of brass kettles, in nests, compleat.
30 pieces best London stroud.
30 do French match coats.
100 pounds of small white beads.
10 do blankets.
2 groce of morrice bells.
20 do do one half thicks, purple and white nap.
5 dozen pieces of yellow, green, and purple ribbon.
Thus prepared and equipped the commissioners soon after proceeded from Philadelphia to the site of the present town of Rome, N.Y., and there, on the 23d day of October, 1784, nearly all of the distinguished chieftains of the Six Nations being assembled, completed the negotiations known in American history as the treaty of Fort Stanwix.
The boundaries of the lands then ceded to Pennsylvania were described as follows: “Beginning at the South side of the river Ohio, where the western Boundary of the State of Pennsylvania crosses the said River near Shingas Old Town at the mouth of Beaver Creek, and thence by a due north line to the End of the forty- second, and beginning of the forty- third degrees of North Latitude, thence by a due East line separating the forty- second and forty- third degrees of North Latitude, to the East side of the East branch of the River Susquehanna, thence by the Bounds of the late purchase made at Fort Stanwix the fifth day of November anno Domini one thousand Seven hundred and Sixty- Eight as follows, down the said East Branch of Susquehanna on the East side thereof till it comes opposite to the mouth of a creek called by the Indians Owandae and across the River, and up the said creek on the south side thereof and along the range of Hills called Burnet’s Hills by the English and by the Indians ____, on the north side of them to the head of a creek which runs into the West Branch of the Susquehanna which creek is by the Indians called Tyadaghtan, but by the Pennsylvanians, Pine Creek, and down the said creek on the south side thereof, to the said West Branch of Susquehanna, then Crossing the said River, and running up the same, on the south side thereof the several courses thereof to the Forks of the same River which lie nearest to a place on the River Ohio, called Kittanning, and from the Forks by a straight line to Kittanning aforesaid, and then down the said River Ohio by the several Courses thereof, to where the Western Bounds of the said State of Pennsylvania crosses the same River at the place of beginning.” Or, in other words, the vast region now embraced by the counties of Potter, McKean, Warren, Crawford, Mercer, Lawrence, Butler, Venango, Forest, Clarion, Jefferson, Elk, and Cameron, besides, in part, by Bradford, Tioga, Lycoming, Clinton, Center, Clearfield, Indiana, Armstrong, Allegheny, Beaver, and Erie counties.
At Fort Stanwix the Seneca chieftain of many names – “Captain John O’Bail,” “Gyantwakee” or the “Cornplanter,” was the principal speaker on behalf of the Senecas, though “Old King” was then recognized as the chief sachem of the nation. The “Cornplanter,” half white by blood, but thoroughly Indian by nature, had been one of the bravest and most successful chiefs of the Senecas during the war. With the rank of captain in the motley forces composed of British regulars, Tories and Indians, he had led his band of murderers into many frontier settlements, sparing the lives of but few of those who were so unfortunate as to fall into his hands; but now he was for peace, a lasting peace, and did his utmost, probably more than any other chieftain to bring about this cession of lands to Pennsylvania. The Pennsylvanians of his day appreciated his efforts, at Fort Stanwix, at Fort McIntosh, and at Presque Isle; but with many of his own people his reputation was for a long time clouded because of his assent to the treaty of Fort Stanwix. They asserted in substance that he had been bribed by the white men, who coveted their lands; and after the trinkets and trumpery they had received in payment were worn out or lost, when with no homes or lands of their own, they realized that their condition was much worse than ever before, they were loud and bitter in their denunciations of him. Indeed, that they were not without something to build their suspicions upon the following will show:
“We the subscribers, Commissioners appointed to purchase of the Indians the late unpurchased Territory within the acknowledged limits of Pennsylvania do promise, to deliver as soon as conveniently may be, to Cap. Aaron Hill of the Mohawk Tribe, and to Captain O’Bale of the Seneca Tribe two good rifles of neat workmanship, one for each of them, the rifles to be sent to the new store near Tioga, if it, should not be convenient for the said Captain Aaron Hill or Captain O’Bale to come themselves the Rifles to be delivered to the Bearer of this obligation. These Rifles given to them in consideration of their services at the late purchase. Witness our hands this 25th day of October, 1784.” This paper was signed by Atlee, Maclay, and Johnston, and was witnessed by G. Evans and James Dean.
The goods received by the Indians in payment for their lands ceded in 1784 were delivered at the junction of the East Branch of the Susquehanna and Chemung Rivers, a place then known as “Tioga Point,” but now designated as Athens, Pa. The privilege of occupying, hunting and fishing upon the unimproved lands ceded was reserved by the Indians. From Fort Stanwix the Pennsylvania commissioners proceeded on horseback to the Muskingum country, or Fort McIntosh, where another treaty was concluded with the Wyandots and Delawares in January, 1785. Thence in the same manner the commissioners journeyed to Fort Pitt, and on eastward to Philadelphia.
Soon after the Indian title to lands in the northwestern portion of the State had been extinguished, it was determined by the Supreme Executive Council to set aside and donate “to the late troops of the Pennsylvania Line, of the American Army,” a large tract of territory to be located in the western part of the new purchase. With this object in view surveyors and explorers were sent forward in the spring and summer of 1785 to make personal observations of regions as yet but little known. One of the most active and intelligent of those delegated with authority to view the country was General William Irvine, a gentleman who had won distinction during the Revolutionary struggle as an officer of the Pennsylvania line. A soldier himself, it was his wish that those who had periled their lives in the fight for independence should have as good land as the new purchase afforded. During his journeyings he penetrated to the central part of the present county of Warren. His descriptions of this and adjacent regions as they appeared to him then, and his ideas of what were good or inferior lands, make interesting reading at this time, hence we append a considerable portion of his report.
“In exploring the donation land, I began on the Line run by Mr. McLane between that and the tracts appropriated for redeeming depreciating certificates which he ascertained by a due North Line to be near thirty miles from Fort Pitt, and by the Common computation along the path leading from Fort Pitt to Venango on the mouth of French Creek, which some affirm was actually measured by the French when they possessed the country, I found it forty miles. East of this part and along Mr. McLane’s Line for five or six miles, the land is pretty level, well watered with small springs, and of tolerable quality, but from thence to the Allegheny River which is about Twenty- five miles due East, there is no land worth mentioning fit for cultivation; as far as French Creek all between the Venango Path and the Allegheny there is very little land fit for cultivation, as it is a continued chain of high barren mountains except small breaches for Creeks and Rivulets to disembogue themselves into the River. These have very small bottoms.
“As I proceeded along the path leading to French Creek about five miles to a branch of Beaver or rather in this place called Canaghqunese (now Connoquenessing), I found the Land of a mixed quality, some very strong and broken with large quantities of fallen Chestnut interspersed with strips covered with Hickory, lofty oak, and under Wood or Brush, Dogwood, Hazel, &; along the Creek very fine rich and extensive bottoms in general fit for meadows; from hence to another branch of said Creek called Flat Rock Creek, about ten miles distant, the land is generally thin, stony and broken, loaded, however, with Chestnut Timber, the greatest part of which lies flat on the earth, which renders it difficult traveling – at the usual crossing place on the last named Creek, there is a beautiful fall over a Rock ten or twelve feet high, at the fording immediately above the fall, the bottom is one entire Rock, except some perforations which are capacious enough to receive a horses foot and leg – it is here about forty yards wide and runs extremely rapid. From Flat Rock to Sandy Creek by Hutchins & Scull called, Lycomie, is about twenty- four miles; on the first twelve there are a considerable quantity of tolerable level lands tho’ much broken with large stony flats, on which grows heavy burthens of Oak, Beech, and Maple, particularly seven or eight miles from the Creek there is a plain or Savannah three or four miles long, and at least two wide, without ~anything to obstruct the prospect, except here and there a small grove of lofty Oaks or Sugar Tree, on the skirts the ground rises gradually to a moderate height from which many fine springs descend, which water this fine Tract abundantly – along these Rivulets small but fine spots of meadow may be made, from hence the remaining twelve miles to Sandy Creek is a ridge or mountain, which divides the waters of the Allegheny, the Beaver and Ohio, and is from East to West, at least three times as long as it is Broad – on the whole of this there is little fit for cultivation, yet some of it is well calculated for raising stock, But a person must be possessed of very large Tracts to enable him to do even this to purpose.
“From Sandy to French Creek is about seven or eight miles from the mouth, but it soon Forks into many small runs, and is but a few miles from the mouth to the source – there are two or three small bottoms only on this C reek – to French Creek is one entire hill, no part of which is by any means fit for cultivation.
“On the lower side, at the mouth of French Creek, where the Fort called Venango formerly stood, there is three or four hundred acres of what is commonly called upland or dry bottom, very good land. On the North East side, about one mile from the mouth, another good bottom begins of four or five hundred acres, and on the summits of the hills on the same side, tho’ high, there is a few hundred acres of land fit for cultivation – this is all in this neighborhood nearer than the first fork of the Creek; which is about eight miles distant. On the Road leading from French to Oil Creek, within about three miles and a half of Venango, there is a Bottom of fine land on the bank of the Allegheny, containing four or five hundred acres, there is little beside to Oil Creek fit for cultivation.
“French Creek is 150 yards wide. From French to Oil Creek is about eight miles – this is not laid down in any map, notwithstanding it is a large stream not less than eighty, or perhaps a hundred yards wide at the mouth, a considerable depth, both of which it retains to the first fork, which is at least twenty miles up, and I am certain is as capable of rafting timber or navigating large boats as French Creek in the same seasons this high. On the northeast or upper side of this creek, at the mouth, is four or five hundred acres of good bottom, and about a mile up there is another small bottom on the southwest side, which is all the good land to the first fork.
“Oil Creek has taken its name from an oil or bituminous matter found floating on the surface. Many cures are attributed to this oil by the natives, and lately by some whites, particularly rheumatic pains and old ulcers; it has hitherto been taken for granted that the water of the creek was impregnated with it, as it was found in so many places, but I have found this to be an error, as I examined it carefully and found it issuing out of two places only, these two are about four hundred yards distant from (each) other, and on opposite sides of the creek. It rises in the bed of the creek at very low water, in a dry season I am told it is found without any mixture of water, and is pure oil; it rises, when the creek is high, from the bottom in small globules, when these reach the surface they break and expand to a surprising extent, and the flake varies in color as it expands; at first it appears yellow and purple only, but as the rays of the sun reach it in more directions, the colors appear to multiply into a greater number than can at once be comprehended.
“From Oil Creek to Cuskakushing, an old Indian town, is about seventeen miles – the whole of this is barren, high mountains, not fit for cultivation; the mountain presses so close on the river that it is almost impassable, and by no means practicable when the river is high, then travelers either on foot or horseback are obliged to ascend the mountain and proceed along the summit.
“At Cuskushing there is a narrow bottom about two miles long, good land, and a very fine island fifty or sixty acres, where the Indians formerly planted corn. From Cuskushing to another old Indian town, also on the bank of the river, is about six miles; this place is called Canenacai, or Hickory Bottom; here is a few hundred acres of good land and some small islands, from hence to a place named by the natives the Burying Ground, from a tradition they have that some extraordinary man was buried there many hundred years ago, is about thirteen miles; most of this way is also a barren and very high mountain, and you have to travel the greatest part of the way in the bed of the river. To Brokenstraw Creek, or Bockaloons, from the last named place is about fourteen miles, here the hills are not so high or barren, and there are sundry good bottoms along the river. About half way there is a hill called by the Indians, Paint Hill, where they find very good red oker. Brokenstraw is thirty yards wide, there is a fine situation and good bottom near the mouth on both sides, but a little way up the creek large hills covered with pine make their appearance. From Brokenstraw to Conewagoo is eight or nine miles – here is a narrow bottom, interspersed with good dry land and meadow ground all the way, and there is a remarkable fine tract at the mouth of Conewagoo, (Conewango,) of a thousand or perhaps more acres, from the whole of which you command a view up and down the main branch of Allegheny, and also up Conewagoo a considerable distance. Conewagoo is one hundred and fifty yards wide, and is navigable for large boats up to the head of Jadaque Lake, which is upwards of fifty miles from its junction with the east branch of the River. The head of Jadaque Lake is said to be only twelve miles from Lake Erie, where it is said the French formerly had a Fort, and a good Wagon Road from it to the Lake. Conewagoo forks about thirty miles from the mouth of the East Branch, is lost in a morass where the Indians frequently carried their canoes across into a large creek called the Cateraque, which empties into the lake forty or fifty miles above Niagara.
“This account of the Branches of Conewagoo I had from my Guide, an Indian Chief of the Senecas, a native of the place, and an intelligent white man, who traversed all this country repeatedly. I have every reason to believe the facts are so – tho’ I do not know them actually to be so, as I went only a small distance up this creek, being informed there is no land fit for cultivation to the first fork or to the lower end of Jadaque Lake, which begins seven miles up the West Branch, except what has already been mentioned at the mouth of the creek, the appearance of the country, in a view taken from the summit of one of the high hills, fully justified this Report, as nothing can be seen but one large chain of mountains towering above another, here, perhaps, it may not be amiss to insert the supposed distances in a collected view – and First from
“Fort Pitt to McLanes- 40 Miles.
To fourth branch of Canaghqunese- 5 Miles.
“Rocky, or Flat Rock Creek- 10 Miles.
“Sandy Creek- 24 Miles.
“French Creek- 8 Miles.
“Oil Creek- 8 Miles.
“Cuskakushing- 17 Miles.
“Cananacai- 6 Miles.
“The Burying Ground- 13 Miles.
“Brokenstraw- 14 Miles.
“Conewagoo- 9 Miles.
Total – 154 Miles.
Deduct from Fort Pitt to McLanes’ line between the depreciation and donation tracts- 40 Miles.
Leaves the donation land to be- 40 Miles Long.
“WM. IRVINE, agent.”
During the same year (1785) part of the Indian purchase of 1784 was added to Westmoreland county, for judicial and other purposes, including portions of the present county of Warren, and about two years later the Supreme Executive Council, of which Benjamin. Franklin was president, granted to one “James Chambers, Esquire,” late a colonel in the Revolutionary army, five hundred acres of land, then described as “in the County of Westmoreland,” but now embraced by Spring Creek township in the county of Warren. This deed or grant was signed by Franklin August 17, 1787, and is one of the oldest papers of record relating to Warren county.
In the summer of 1787, Andrew Ellicott and Andrew Porter commissioners for the State of Pennsylvania, and Abraham Hardenburg and William Morris, commissioners for the State of New York, ran out and marked the boundary line between the two States from the ninetieth mile stone west from the Delaware River, on the parallel of forty- two degrees north latitude, westward to a meridian line drawn from the southwestern corner of the State of Pennsylvania. On the 29th of August of that year from their “observatory” on the west side of the Conewango, the Pennsylvania commissioners reported to the Supreme Executive Council as follows:
“GENTLEMEN: – We now take the earliest opportunity we have had of acquainting you with the progress we have made in the business which you have intrusted to us. We arrived at the Cawwanishee Fiats on the 11th day of June, where the 90th mile- stone was set up last season. The Susquehannah was remarkably low, which prevented our Boats making the necessary expedition. From the 90th mile- stone we sent our instruments up the Thyesa in Canoes about 10 miles; our water- carriage then failed, and we had recourse to our Pack- Horses, but the ruggedness of the country at the Heads of the Susquehannah, Geneseo and Allegheny Rivers, soon killed, and rendered useless about two- thirds, but fortunately for our business, when the Horses failed we found ourselves on a small branch of the Allegheny River, necessity then pointed out the propriety of using water- carriage as much as possible, we immediately set about making canoes, and by the spirited exertions of our men, with no other implements than three falling axes, two or three Tomahawks, and a Chisel, 1 1/2 inch wide, we had completed in six days for the use of our Pennsylvania party 5 excellent Canoes, two of which are between 40 and 50 feet in length. These Canoes with our Stores, Instruments and Baggage, we hauled 10 miles down a shallow stream to the main Allegheny River, our progress now began to appear less difficult, and we prepared to proceed down the River to a proper place for correcting the random Line by astronomical observation, but the day preceding our intended movement, we were ordered by the Indians (probably some of Cornplanter’s band to discontinue the Line ’till after a treaty should be held. We met them at the time and place appointed, explained the nature and propriety of the business we were about, and finally were permitted to proceed. We have, notwithstanding these difficulties, completed the Line to the 167 mile- stone from the Delaware, and expect to have 28 miles more finished in a few days, and the fullest expectation of finishing the business this season in good time, if not impeded by some uncommon difficulty or accident.”
This report was signed by Messrs. Ellicott and Porter. In it, it will be noticed, the commissioners speak of their stores, etc.; and to show that these worthies were not destitute of the comforts and even the luxuries of life, while making their way through the wilderness and along the northern border of what is now Warren county, a hundred years ago, we append Mr. Porter’s requisition for animals and supplies, made just before starting forth:
“20 Horses and Pack Saddles.
1 box of Prunes.
20 Bells.
1 Hhd Spirits.
10 Bbls of Pork.
20 Gall’ns Wine.
30 Bbls of Flour.
10 Gall’ns F. Brandy.
200 lbs of Loaf Sugar.
2 Gall’ns Lime Juce.
50 lbs of Coffee.
30 lbs Soap.
8 lbs of Tea.
50 lbs Candles.
15 lbs of Chocolate.
10 Gall’ns Vinegar.
60 lbs of Cheese.
28 lbs Scotch Barley.
3 doz’n neats Tongues.
14 lbs Rice.
3 lbs of Pepper and 6 Bottles Mustard.
4 Bushels Salt.
3 jars of Pickles.
Stationery.”
On the 29th of October of the same year (1787) the commissioners of the two States made their final report, showing that the boundary line had been marked in a satisfactory and permanent manner by mile- stones, or posts surrounded by mounds of earth, where stones could not be procured, from the ninetieth mile- stone west from the river Delaware to Lake Erie. Two maps also accompanied their report, showing the route traversed, the location of mile- posts, observatories, etc., the names of streams crossed or flowing near by, and likewise the names and location of a number of Indian towns. From these maps we learn that Conewango Creek was then written “Conawango River;” the Kinzua, “Consua,” and the Brokenstraw, “Koshanuadeago.” No Indian towns were shown within the present limits of Warren county, but just over the line in New York, upon both the Conewango* and Allegheny, Indian villages were designated, besides another, termed “Hickory Town,” at the point now known as Tionesta.
In February, 1788, Andrew Ellicott, one of the boundary- line commissioners, in writing from Baltimore to Benjamin Franklin, president of the Supreme Executive Council, said: “From the Face of the Map we returned to the Supreme Executive Council last December, of the Country thro’ which we passed with the Northern Boundary of the State; it appears plain that the situation of several places demands the attention of the Legislature. The first is the Mouth of the Conewango River; the second at the Mouth of French Creek, where the Old Venango Fort stood, and the third at the head of the Navigable Water of French Creek at Fort Le Boeuf.” Thus again was the attention of the authorities directed to the eligible and picturesque site of the town of Warren.
The following year Richard Butler and John Gibson, commissioners for and in behalf of the State of Pennsylvania, concluded another treaty with the chiefs, warriors, and others representing the Six Nations, by which treaty the State acquired possession of the territory bounded on the south by the north line of Pennsylvania, on the east by the western boundary of New York, agreeably to the cession of that State and the State of Massachusetts to the United States, and on the north by the margin of Lake Erie, including Presque Isle and other points. At this treaty Cornplanter was again conspicuous as the friend of the whites, and by his speeches and bearing rendered the work of the commissioners comparatively easy of accomplishment. Feeling grateful, therefore, General Richard Butler, one of the commissioners above named, on the 22d of March, 1789, addressed the following communication to Thomas Mifflin, then president of the Supreme Executive Council:
“I beg leave to mention to your Excellency and Council that Capt’n Abeal, alias the Cornplanter, one of the principal Chiefs of the Seneca Tribe of the Six Nations, has been very useful in all the Treaties since 1784 inclusive, and particularly to the State of Pennsylvania, this he has demonstrated very fully, and his attachment at present to the State appears very great. This has induced me to suggest to your Excellency and Council whether it may not be good Policy in the State to fix this attachment by making it to his interest to continue it. This, from the Ideas he possesses of Civilization, induces me to think if the state would be pleased to grant him a small tract of land within the late purchase, it would be very grateful to him, and have that Effect. This may be done in a manner that would render him service without lessening his influence with his own people or Exposing him to jealousy. The quantity need not be large, perhaps one thousand or fifteen hundred acres. How far your Excellency and Council may concur in this opinion will rest with your Excellency and them. My wishes for the quiet and interest of the State as well as the merits of the man, has induced me to take the liberty to mention this matter and hope the motive will be my appology.”
This letter having been received and considered in Council March 24, or two days after date, it was resolved that the recommendation to grant Cornplanter one thousand or fifteen hundred acres of land be complied with.
As alluded to in a preceding paragraph, the attention of the Executive Council having frequently been directed to certain choice locations in the territory recently acquired by purchase (at Presque Isle, on Lake Erie; at Le Boeuf at the head of navigation of French Creek; at the mouth of the Conewango, in the county of Allegheny, and at Fort Venango, situated at the mouth of French Creek), it was resolved in Council on Saturday, April 4, 1789, “that the Surveyor General be directed, and he is hereby directed to appoint a proper person to locate, survey, and make return of the several tracts mentioned in the said resolution of Assembly, for the use of the Commonwealth, in conformity with the said resolution, and that the locations at each place amount to three thousand acres and no more.” In compliance with this resolution the surveyor- general soon after appointed John Adlum to perform the work. The latter did so during the following summer, and in September, 1789, reported that he had completed the survey of four reserved tracts of lands, or “State Manors,” at the points indicated, at an expense to the State of one hundred and seventy- five pounds eight shillings and two pence.
In the year 1790 the General Council of Pennsylvania appointed a commission to survey and explore the West Branch of the Susquehanna and the head waters of the “Alegina,” the object being to establish a suitable wagon road from the Susquehanna valley to Lake Erie. This commission consisted of John Adlum, Colonel Matlack, and Hon. Samuel Maclay, who afterward served a term as United States senator from Pennsylvania, from 1803 to 1808. During the time that the commission was acting in the discharge of its duties Mr. Maclay kept a record of each day’s events, and it is from this diary, now in the possession of his grandson, ex- State Senator Maclay, of Clarion county, that these notes of the first official exploration of the head waters of the Allegheny, by authority of the State of Pennsylvania, are compiled.
By the terms of the act creating the commission, the commissioners were to meet at Lebanon on May 1, 1790; but Mr. Adlum and Colonel Matlack did not arrive at that point until May 17. Immediately after their arrival the commission proceeded upon the discharge of its duties, Mr. Maclay having made all necessary preparations while waiting upon the delinquents.
The West Branch was explored until the mouth of the Sinnemahoning Creek was reached, which stream was ascended as far as navigable by canoes, when the party proceeded on foot to the head waters of the Clarion River, in what is now Elk county. While Maclay and Matlack made different surveys in this locality, Mr. Adlum ran a line to the “Alegina,” the object being to establish a camp on that river and leave some of the attendants there to build canoes for the accommodation of the commissioners when they should be ready to descend. This camp was located about twenty miles above the State line, and from this point the entire party started down the “Alegina” on the 2d day of July. About twelve o’clock they met two Indians, one of whom called himself “Doctor Thomas,” who informed them that they had been sent by their chief to see when the commissioners would arrive at the Indian town below. The State line was reached at three o’clock on the afternoon of the 3d, and here the party encamped for the night. Leaving early the next morning, the Indian camp was reached about nine o’clock, “Dr. Thomas” and his companion having preceded them. As what follows is of the most interesting character, we quote Mr. Maclay’s diary in full:
“We got to the town at 9 o’clock. Went down below the town a little distance, kindled a fire and got our breakfast. Several of the Indians came to our fire, but the principal man was out of town, and it seems we must wait for him. We waited until the afternoon and were then given to understand that Con- ne- shangom, their chief, was gone to Venango, but a certain Captain John supplyed his place. He made us a speech in the afternoon to the following effect: That he and all their men returned thanks to Almighty God for the opportunity of speaking to his brothers; that as he now speaks he hopes that you will hear that you are come to poor people that are all suffering. Another thing he hopes that he knew nothing of our coming until he looked up and saw us come down the water. He hopes we will take pity on their women and children and give them something to prevent them from starving.
“Monday, July 5th. – Set off in the morning, two Indians going with us in a canoe, viz: Captain John and Ten Days, and the Doctor on horseback. About the middle of the afternoon we came to an Indian camp on shore where they had whisky, which they offered us. At this camp we saw a Dutchman who in the war had been taken prisoner, and, it seemed, choosed to continue with the Indians. We delayed but a short time at this camp, when we put out and left the Indians. After some time the Indians came up with us and the Doctor had got himself a little drunk. Just so much as to put him to showing his horsemanship, and, in attempting to ride up a steep bank, him and his horse tumbled together into the river. We took up our camp a little before sunset.
“Tuesday, July 6th. – Took our breakfast and set off and came to Tuis- in- Guis- an- Gothtaw about 10 o’clock. We soon found that the Doctor, who had reached the town before us, had been doing us ill offices with the people of the town. They looked remarkably sour, and insisted on our stopping until they sent for their chief, the Cornplanter, who lived about seven miles below at a place called In- oh- show- Dego. We said that we could go on and call on the Cornplanter where he lived. They said it was not manly to call about business at a cabin in the woods, and said that they had a hold of the stern of our canoe, plainly intimating that they could and would make us stay. We thought it best to be as accommodating as we could and told them to send for the Cornplanter, and we would stay until the afternoon. About noon their Chief came and told us that he had sent for the Cornplanter; that he expected him soon, but that we must not think the time long. His advice had no effect, for we did think the d4ay a very long one. Night came at last but no Cornplanter.
“Wednesday, July 7th. – The Cornplanter came about eight o’clock, and appeared to be friendly disposed. He said he would look for a place where we might meet and speak to each other. We met, told our business and delivered the Cornplanter his letter, which was read and interpreted to the Indians by one Matthews. They then all appeared in a good humor, and the Cornplanter, in a speech, told us he was glad to see us and gave us a welcome to anything we could catch in their country. Then we were addressed by an orator in behalf of the women. They told us that they were glad to see us; that they hoped we were well; that we had come a long, bad road; that they had heard the good news we had brought; that they thought that as the severest part of the labour of living fell to their lot, they had a right to speak and to be heard, and again thanked us for our good news; that they hoped that as soon as the good road we had spoke of was made they would be able to purchase what things they wanted on better terms; that it was true their trade at this time was much worse than formerly, owing to the scarcity of game, but that if a good road was made it would still be worth while for traders to-come among them, and that they hoped a good correspondence would still be cultivated between them and us until we should become one people. Their speech was answered very properly by Col. Matlack. As soon as that was ended, though it rained, we got on board of our canoes and pushed down the river, and took up our camp opposite Capt. John Obeales Town, and had the honor of his company for supper.
“Thursday, July 7th. – The morning rainy. After breakfast it cleared, and Mr. Adlum went up to the State line to survey the river, and to assist me in making a survey for the Cornplanter. This business kept us employed until about four o’clock. As we were both wet when we came to camp we concluded to stay where we were for the night.
“Friday, July 9th. – Set off after breakfast and proceeded down the river to the mouth of the Kinjua, where we parted with Mr. Adlum. He proceeded up the Kinjua with two of the hands, accompanied with an Indian called Tim T. Tugmutton. We proceeded down the river to the mouth of the Connowango, and got up the same about two miles, where we encamped for the night.
“Saturday, July 10th. – In the morning we proceeded up the Connowango about two miles further, where we left one of our canoes and all our baggage and provisions that we could spare in the care of Samuel Gibbons, taking with us only provisions for 10 days, and set off for the Jadockque lake, having one Matthews with us to act as an interpreter, as we expected to meet with several Indians. We kept with dilligence at the poles and paddled all day, and got 17 miles as we computed.
“Sunday, July 11th. – We started in the morning and kept steadily at work all day, and made as we computed, 17 miles further up the Connowango. In these two days’ traveling with our canoes we had not more than 16 miles of strong water, the bed of the river being like a mill pond, and in general so deep that we could not find the bottom with our setting poles.
“Monday, July 12th. – Set off in the morning and found it extremely difficult to get up the creek. The water was very low and divided with a great number of small Islands and the channels stopped up with driftwood and timber that had fallen across the creek. In some places we cleared a passage, in others we were obliged to slide our canoe on Scates. We had about five miles of this kind of water; at length we entered the ____ lake, which for about two miles widened gradually – the shore remarkably muddy and covered with splatter docks. From there the lake opens at once and has a very pleasing appearance. We got about four miles up and encamped.”
On the morning of the 14th, having found the old French wagon road, Colonel Matlack and Mr. Maclay followed it to Lake Erie, returning to Lake Jadockque (Chautauqua) on the 15th. Mr. Maclay estimated the distance from the mouth of the Conewango to Lake Erie to be eighty miles “to go by water,” and says the “greater part of the distance is through a very rich soil.” On the morning of the 17th Maclay and Matlack rejoined Adlum at the camp at the mouth of the Conewango, and the three, with their employees, proceeded down the river to “Fort Frankland.” From there another route was surveyed to Lake Erie, by way of French Creek. When this was completed they again continued down the “Alegina” to the mouth of the Kiskiminitis.
This stream was explored and its chief tributary, the Conemaugh, was ascended to its source. After a vain attempt to find a passage across the Allegheny Mountains suitable for a wagon road, they concluded to return home, arriving at Lebanon on September 17 of the same year.
* The Indian village on or near the Conewango was termed by the commissioners “Cayontona “; but Colonel Proctor, who visited this region in April, 1791, writes it “Cayantha, or the Cornfields.” It stood about one mile north of the 195th mile- post on the State line west from the Delaware River, and between the forks of a small stream which, here flowing northeasterly, empties into the Conewango about a mile and a half north of the State line.
SOURCE: Page(s) 83-96, History of Warren County, J.S. Schenck & W.S. Rann, Syracuse, New York: D. Mason, 1887
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